NOMA

To describe NOMA in one word, I would say the experience was sensory.  Your ears experience it first through the resounding warm welcome.  Your eyes, by the immaculately clean spaces and the uncanny plating presentations.  Your nose, through the smell of the different dishes as the servers uncover them right in front of you.  Your taste buds, as you contemplate flavor combinations you've never had in your life.  Your sense of touch, through dishes you must eat with your hands.

Whimsical, would also a great way to sum up my experience there.  The dishes were incredibly playful for a restaurant with the very serious title of number one in the world.  There was the Nordic coconut, hollowed and filled with soup you sipped through a straw; the quirky presentation of an empty tin with two bite-sized blinis; the quail eggs served in a giant egg. The list goes on and on.

Most surprising though, was how incredibly tasty the juice pairing was.  Wine pairings you can get anywhere, but the option of a juice pairing was a first.  All the juices were homemade and paired perfectly with each of the dishes.  If you should find yourself lucky enough to dine at NOMA - get the juice pairing.

Not surprising, is that more than 20 different nationalities are represented among the staff.  Our server said that half of the front of the house staff (servers, hosts, etc) were Danes and the other half were international. In the kitchen, it was mostly Americans, with 2 Koreans, 2 Japanese, 2 Germans, 2 Finns, 2 Guatemalans, 1 Indian, 1 Canadian, etc.  Since it was such an international staff, meetings were conducted in English so that everyone could understand.  In total, about 50 people work there with about 15 chefs in each of the kitchens: plating, prep, and the Nordic food lab. The capacity at NOMA is 45, so you're getting roughly a 1:1 ratio between staff and customer. 

red current and lavender

nordic coconut

moss and cep

cheese cookie, rocket and stems

pickled and smoked eggs

white cabbage and samphire

aebleskiver, lovage and parsley

sea urchin toast

pike head

burnt leek and cod roe

apple and kelp

shrimp and ramson, radish and yeast

milk curd and blueberries, lemon thyme and pine

beef tartar and ants

beetroot sloe berries and aromatic herbs

egg and fresh greens

turbot and nasturtium, cream and wood sorrel

aronia berries and sol

potato and plum

caramel, yeast, and skyr

 

  \

danish in the style of noma

chocolate covered pork rind

plating kitchen

plating kitchen

staff dining room, prep kitchen, bbq station, dining room

herbs in the staff room

talented canadian showing us the back of the house; chef redzepi in the test kitchen

group photo with the talented and international noma staff

I doubt I'll ever have an experience like that again and of one thing I am absolutely certain:  I am grateful beyond words for having been able to dine there, even once.  It was without a doubt, one of the best meals of my life.  

How I got the reservation:  I had been trying to secure a reservation at NOMA since 2011.  Every month on the 6th, I would wait for the online booking to open at 10:00 am, and until 9 months ago, all of those attempts ended in failure. Moral of the story: don't give up!  Persistence pays off. 

EVERYTHING I ATE AT L'AVANT COMPTOIR

It's actually a blessing that this place doesn't take reservations.  It means that we all have a fair shot at trying the dishes we read about online.  I'll let the pictures do the talking.

These are listed in order, from most to least favorite:

HAM AND ARTICHOKE WAFFLE

BLOOD SAUSAGE MACARON

CHAMPIGNONS WITH EGGS

 

SCALLOP ON THE SHELL

FRESH OYSTERS (SEASONAL)

SKEWERED FOIE GRAS AND RED PEPPERS

 

FRIED CHICKEN, FRITES, AND POTATO SALAD

EVERY SINGLE THING I HAVE EVER EATEN IN PARIS

Paris is a food lover's paradise, but eating there can sometimes be a stressful experience.  The fact that there are so many good restaurants to choose from makes deciding which ones to visit a very difficult decision.  Even after having secured your reservation, as soon as you read an interesting recommendation online, you may find yourself wondering if you've made the right choice.  Was there a better restaurant I could have chosen?  What if I am missing out on something else, something better? Is this a place locals frequent or is it a tourist trap? 

To help with your decision making, here is a list of every single thing I have ever eaten in Paris (and how many times I have visited: 1X=once, 2X=twice, etc.).  

ANGELINA - 3X

226 Rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, France+33 1 42 60 82 00

Monday-Friday, 7:30am-7pm; Saturday-Sunday, 8:30am-7pm
I came here on my first visit lured by its famous molten hot chocolate, and returned on two separate occasions with my mother, and my mother-in-law. It's an easy and accommodating place with tons of Parisian charm.  It gets bonus points for being so close to the Louvre. 

AU BOEUF COURONNE - 1X

188 Avenue Jean Jaurès 75019 Paris, France+33 1 42 39 44 44

Daily, 12pm-3pm and 7pm-12am

I was looking forward to the pommes souffle (frites fried twice that puff up like little pillows), more than the actual steak here!  Very old school French. A bit out of the way in the 19th arr.     

BREIZH CAFE - 2X

109 Rue Vieille du Temple 75003 Paris, France+33 1 42 72 13 77

Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30am-10pm; Closed Monday and Tuesday

Famous for its buckwheat pancakes, I ordered savory kind the two times I came here. If you want to get a crepe in Paris, this is the place to be.  

CAFE BACI - 1X

36 rue Turenne, 75003 Paris, France

01 42 71 36 70

Daily, 10:30am-12am 

Great decor, luxurious place for a coffee break.  Loungy feel at night.

CAFE DE FLORE - 1X

172 Boulevard Saint-Germain  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 55 26

Daily, 7:30am-1:30am

Classic Parisian cafe.  Free wifi. Try to sit outside if possible since it's a great spot to do some people watching.  

CAFE LES DEUX MAGOTS - 2X

6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 55 25

Daily, 7:30am-1am

Another classic cafe.  Also has free wifi.  Nice place for a break.  

CHEZ DUMONET - 4X

117 Rue du Cherche-Midi  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 52 40

Monday to Friday, 12:30pm-2:30pm and 7:30pm-10:30pm; Closed Saturday and Sunday

See here.

ERIC KAYSER - 3X

Locations all over 

Best baguettes ever.  Get them when in the morning when they're fresh.

GEORGES RESTAURANT @ THE POMPIDOU - 1X

19 Rue Beaubourg  75004 Paris, France+33 1 44 78 47 99

Wednesday to Sunday, 11am-2am; Monday, 11am-12am;  Closed Tuesdays

The food was great, but it was not classic French. This can be welcome diversion though, especially if you feel like you're on the verge of a heart attack after all that rich food.  Oh and the views, absolutely stunning and second to none.  In a city where getting a table can be extremely stressful, this is one of the few easy restaurants to get a table at. It's huge and we walked right in for lunch. 

KUNITORAYA - 1X

39, Rue Sainte-Anne, Paris, France
01 47 03 33 65

Daily, 11:30am-10pm

**According to Yelp the Sainte Anne location has closed.  This address is also no longer listed on the official website. Try the new place below.**

KUNITORAYA 2

5, rue Villedo 75001 Paris
Tél : 01 47 03 07 74

This is the "best udon in Paris".  I have never tried other udon places, so I cannot say if this is true or not.  My udon was good though!    

L'AS DU FALLAFEL - 1X

34 Rue des Rosiers  75004 Paris, France

Monday to Thursday and Sunday, 11am-12am; Friday, 11am-5pm; Closed Saturday

Famous for their fallafels.  This is a great place to stop for a quick meal.  Go for lunch if you want to avoid the lines.  

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON - 1X

5 Rue Montalembert  75007 Paris, France+33 1 42 22 56 56

Daily, 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-12am

What else would you expect, but perfection?  These were some of the most incredibly executed dishes I have ever seen and tasted (on par with Tickets in Barcelona).  The fish was impeccably cooked.  The star of the night was the raw scallop starter (the one in the circular dish beneath the photo of the fish).  B and I were fighting over that.  The steak tartare was delicious, but I somehow craved the one at Le Severo more.  All in all, a fantastic restaurant.  Service and ambiance were spot on. 

LADUREE CAFE (ORLY AIRPORT) - 1X

Orly Ouest Terminal
Public Zone Departure Hall 2
Tel : +33 (0)1 74 22 07 77 

A fantastic way to end your Paris trip.  Sure it feels a little phoney and can't compare to the original locations in the city, but it's Laduree!  Use your imagination.  Oh and make sure you pick up some macarons for the flight home - you (or your family and friends) will be grateful you did!

LADUREE - 3X

18 rue Royale 75008 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 60 21 79

Monday to Thursday, 8:30am-7:30pm; Friday and Saturday, 8:30am-8pm; Sunday, 10am-7pm

21 rue Bonaparte 75006 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 44 07 64 87

Monday to Friday, 8:30am-7:30pm; Satuday, 8:30am-8:30pm; Sunday, 10:00am-7:30pm

I've been to the Rue Royale and Rue Bonaparte locations, but the one on Champ Elysees is supposed to be the best (based on the decor, the macarons taste the same).  On my list for my next visit.  When I visited Paris in 2012, there was a pop up shop in the Louvre.  Laduree is slowly taking over Paris, one tourist spot at a time. 

LE BAMBOU - 2X

70 Rue Baudricourt 75013 Paris, France
+33 1 45 70 91 75
Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30am-3:30pm and 6:30pm-10:30pm; Closed Mondays
We came here twice.  It was a solid place and I'd go back to try other dishes.  The com suon (vietnamese pork chops) was pretty good. Pho was good as well. 

LE BON MARCHE - 1X

24 Rue de Sèvres  75007 Paris, France+33 1 44 39 80 00

Monday to Saturday, 8am-8pm; Closed Sundays
A must stop if you are fascinated by food displays and decadent French ingredients.  Everything looked so perfect! 

LE CAFE - 2X

62 Rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris, France

+01-49-26-06-60

Monday to Saturday, 10am-10pm; Sunday, 12pm-12am

Nice place for a break in shopping heaven.  So many cool shops in this neighborhood.  I ate dinner here once and stopped for coffee another time. 

LE CAFE MOLLIEN @ THE LOUVRE -1X

Louvre museum, Denon Wing, 1st floor. Next to the gallery of Large-Format French paintings.

Open daily (except Tuesday) from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and 7 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays.
Your average museum cafe. Nice spot for a halftime break before beginning the next mile of the labyrinth known as the Louvre. 

LE CHATEAUBRIAND - 1X

129 Avenue Parmentier  75011 Paris, France

+33 1 43 57 45 95
Dinner only; Closed Sunday & Monday
One of the hottest tables in Paris (at least in 2011). If you couldn't get a reservation, there is a 2nd seating (@9:30pm) where you just show up (no reservations accepted for the 2nd seating).  We were there an hour before the 2nd seating started and were the first in line.  I think it's safe to be there 40 minutes beforehand.  By 9:15pm there was a very long line.  Chef Aizpitarte wasn't there the night we went.  Bummer. 

LE COMPTOIR DU RELAIS - 1X
9 Carrefour de l'Odéon Paris
+33 1 44 27 07 50

Daily, 12pm-6pm (10:30pm on Saturdays and Sundays)

This place serves all the classics.  Book in advance for dinner or get in line early for lunch (no reservations accepted), or prepare to wait a long time for a table. 

LE SEVERO - 4X

8 Rue des Plantes  75014 Paris, France
+33 1 45 40 40 91

Monday to Friday, 12pm-2pm and 7:30pm-9:45pm; Closed Saturday and Sunday

See here.

LE WATER BAR @ COLETTE - 1X

213 Rue Saint-Honoré  75001 Paris, France
+33 1 55 35 33 90

Monday to Saturday, 11am-7pm
I came here to rest my feet after walking the length of Rue Saint Honore.  Colette is a cool place to stop and see beautiful clothes. Just be ready to elbow your way through the crowd.  

GALERIES LAFAYETTE - 1X

40 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris, France

+33 1 42 82 34 56

Monday to Saturday, 9:30am-8pm; Closed Sundays

Stopped for a coffee and fresh bread here.  Very impressive selection of gourmet food. 

PHO SONG HUONG - 1X

Next to Pho Banh Cuon 14

+33 1 45 85 01 76

My mom said these were some of the best tasting cha gio she had ever had in her life. I couldn't agree more.  The pho was decent too, definitely the best I've had in Paris (though I still prefer the American version).

PHO BANH CUON 14 - 1X

129 Avenue de Choisy 75013 Paris, France

+33 1 45 83 61 15

Daily, 9am-11pm

If you google "pho in paris" or "best pho in paris" this place tops the search results.  I thought the pho at Le Bambou and Pho Song Huong were a touch better, but it could have been an off night for Pho Banh Cuon 14. I'd hate to write this place off after one experience, so I plan to go back one day. One thing is for sure, they has a lot of fans.  The line outside was incredible. 

PIERRE HERME - +10X
72 Rue Bonaparte Paris
+33 1 43 54 47 77
Daily, 10am-7pm
See here.
And here.

RODIN MUSEUM (CAFE) - 2X

79 Rue de Varenne  75007 Paris, France+33 1 44 18 61 10 Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm; Closed Mondays

This is a Cafeteria style cafe (trays and all), so don't expect table service.  If you are here already and feel hungry, the food is surprisingly decent.  It's a great spot to stop and refuel just enough to keep your appetite (and wallet) in tact.  Also, it's located in one of my favorite museums in Paris.

TOKYO EAT @ PALAIS DU TOKYO - 3X

13 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, France
+33 1 47 20 00 29
Daily, 12pm-3pm and 8pm-11:30pm
Very good food and the restaurant is very interesting (especially the bathrooms).  The menu changes constantly and there are always new and interesting things being offered.

PLACES THAT ARE STILL ON MY PARIS FOOD LIST:

FRENCHIE, YAM T'CHA, CAFE LE PAPILLON, L'ASTRANCE, CHARBON ROUGE, LE RELAIS DE L'ENTRECOTE, CHEZ MICHEL, DU PAIN ET DES IDEES.

Bon appetit!