STOCKHOLM EATS

Not stingy with the seafood - fish soup from Kajsas Fisk

Scandinavia is hands down my favorite area of Europe and the food scene there is probably one of the most exhilarating in the world.  Stockholm was always very high on my Europe bucket list and while the trip was unexpected (I was supposed to go to Coppenhagen, but the flight got cancelled a week out), I was determined to make the most out of it. With less than a week to organize the trip, I ended up doing more food research for this city than any other place I've visited. I'm happy to share that every single place I dined at was incredible, which is rare for a city. 

Oh, and if you are a shopper, you're in for a treat. Stockholm is hands down one of my favorite shopping cities (stayed tuned for a Stockholm shopping post).

KAJSAS FISK

Hotorgshallen* 11157, Norrmalm

468207262

Mon-Thu 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-18:30, Sat 10:00-16:00

If there is one place in Stockholm you shouldn't, or cannot, miss, it is this place.  I would travel to Stockholm again just to have another taste of their famous fish soup.  At Kajsas, they don't add two pieces of rubbery shrimp and call it fish soup.  It's quite the opposite.  They are incredibly generous with their seafood and each bowl is filled to the brim with all forms of delectable sea life. The broth alone is so rich, thick, and tasty.  Salad, bread, and water all come with the cost of the soup (free refills!). If you love seafood, do yourself a favor and make sure you add this place into your itinerary.  We went right when they opened and by the time we were done, the line was insane. 

 

*Hotorgshallen is a cute little food hall.  After our meal at Kajsas, we took a stroll and bought some smoked salmon and dried fruits for the flight home.

 

Almost too good to be true

Fish soup with a dollop of garlic aioli and a small salad

BAKFICKAN

Jakobs Tord 12, Norrmalm (T-bana: Kungstradgarden)

46-8-676-5800

Monday to Friday, 11:30am-11pm; Saturday, 12pm-10pm

If you want to try Swedish classics, head straight here. The meatballs with gravy and potatoes were amazing here. Bakfickan actually share the same kitchen as Operakallaren (a high-end restaurant serving innovative Scandinavian cuisine), which means you get amazing food at a fraction of the cost. No reservations accepted.



Swedish meatballs - not the Ikea variety

Lingonberry sauce and picked cucumbers to accompany the meatballs

MATBAREN

Grand Hotel: Sodra Blasieholmshamnen 6

46-8-679-35-84

Monday to Friday, 12pm-2pm; Monday to Saturday, 6pm-12am

I highly recommend this restaurant.  Every single thing we ate was delicious and the service was perfect - accomodating and highly professional, but human at the same time.  We sat at the bar, which I would recommend over a table because you get constant service and a closer look at what goes on behind the scenes. This was probably the best full meal I had in Stockholm. 

Everything was good from amuse bouche to petit fours.  The molten chocolate cake with caramel gelato was insanely good.

CAFE SATURNUS

Eriksgerbsgatan 6

08 611 77 00

Monday to Thursday, 8am-8pm; Friday, 8am-7pm; Saturday and Sunday, 10am-7pm

This cafe is famous for its kanelbullar (bun with cinnamon sprinkled with huge nuggets of sugar).  It has an incredibly appetizing spread of baked goods and their coffee is made with care.  All in all a great spot for breakfast or brunch.  

Kanelbullar

A ridiculously rich-looking cake for breakfast?  Sure, why not.

 NYSTEKT STROMMING

Södermalmstorg Södermalm

Monday to Friday, 10am-7pm; Saturday to Sunday, 12pm-5pm

This place is famous for its fried herring, and rightly so.  We went a little after the lunch peak and the line was still 20-30 people deep. Each piece of herring was fried to perfection and the sides took it to another level.  Cash only.

Fried herring with picked onions and cucumbers

Fried herring with potatoes and pickled veggies

PELIKAN

Blekingegatan 40 (T: Skanstull)

855609092

Monday to Thursday, 3:30 pm-1am; Friday to Sunday, 1pm-1am

An authentic Swedish beer hall.  Their famous Flasklagg (pork knuckle) is a beast.  Even with B's big appetite we barely finished our meal. 

Doppsko (Swedish hash), Flasklagg (pork knuckle) with three types of mustard, a homemade variety of ice cold Schnapps, and  "S.O.S" (smör, ost och sill - butter, cheese, and herring in Swedish) - Assortment of pickled herring and cheese

VETE-KATTEN

Klara Norra Kyrkogata 26, Norrmalm

46-8-208-405

Monday to Friday, 7:30am-7:30pm; Saturday, 9:30am-5pm; Sunday, 12pm-5pm

One of the most famous cakes in Stockholm.  We orderd the Princess Cake, a custard filled donut, and something to go (forgot what was in the bag) and it was all delicious.

Princess cake, fried pastry with custard filling, and a mystery pastry we took to go (sorry, I forgot what it was)

Close up of the princess cake

CAFE STRING

Nytorgsgatan 38  116 40 Stockholm, Sweden
+46 8 714 85 14

Monday to Thursday, 9am–8pm; Friday 9am–7pm; Saturday to Sunday, 10:30am–7pmA relaxed cafe in the SoFo district (this area is work a look, tons of cute boutiques and an Acne just down the street).  It looks like a former retail space turned coffee shop.  There are large chairs and coffee tables arranged on a raised platform (a little strange to me) and all the furniture is for sale.  The berry cobbler with cream was out of this world.  The brownie was not bad either.  Good coffee. 

The chocolate cake wasn't bad, but the berry cobbler with cream was amazing

EVERY SINGLE THING I HAVE EVER EATEN IN PARIS

Paris is a food lover's paradise, but eating there can sometimes be a stressful experience.  The fact that there are so many good restaurants to choose from makes deciding which ones to visit a very difficult decision.  Even after having secured your reservation, as soon as you read an interesting recommendation online, you may find yourself wondering if you've made the right choice.  Was there a better restaurant I could have chosen?  What if I am missing out on something else, something better? Is this a place locals frequent or is it a tourist trap? 

To help with your decision making, here is a list of every single thing I have ever eaten in Paris (and how many times I have visited: 1X=once, 2X=twice, etc.).  

ANGELINA - 3X

226 Rue de Rivoli 75001 Paris, France+33 1 42 60 82 00

Monday-Friday, 7:30am-7pm; Saturday-Sunday, 8:30am-7pm
I came here on my first visit lured by its famous molten hot chocolate, and returned on two separate occasions with my mother, and my mother-in-law. It's an easy and accommodating place with tons of Parisian charm.  It gets bonus points for being so close to the Louvre. 

AU BOEUF COURONNE - 1X

188 Avenue Jean Jaurès 75019 Paris, France+33 1 42 39 44 44

Daily, 12pm-3pm and 7pm-12am

I was looking forward to the pommes souffle (frites fried twice that puff up like little pillows), more than the actual steak here!  Very old school French. A bit out of the way in the 19th arr.     

BREIZH CAFE - 2X

109 Rue Vieille du Temple 75003 Paris, France+33 1 42 72 13 77

Wednesday to Sunday, 11:30am-10pm; Closed Monday and Tuesday

Famous for its buckwheat pancakes, I ordered savory kind the two times I came here. If you want to get a crepe in Paris, this is the place to be.  

CAFE BACI - 1X

36 rue Turenne, 75003 Paris, France

01 42 71 36 70

Daily, 10:30am-12am 

Great decor, luxurious place for a coffee break.  Loungy feel at night.

CAFE DE FLORE - 1X

172 Boulevard Saint-Germain  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 55 26

Daily, 7:30am-1:30am

Classic Parisian cafe.  Free wifi. Try to sit outside if possible since it's a great spot to do some people watching.  

CAFE LES DEUX MAGOTS - 2X

6 Place Saint-Germain des Prés  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 55 25

Daily, 7:30am-1am

Another classic cafe.  Also has free wifi.  Nice place for a break.  

CHEZ DUMONET - 4X

117 Rue du Cherche-Midi  75006 Paris, France+33 1 45 48 52 40

Monday to Friday, 12:30pm-2:30pm and 7:30pm-10:30pm; Closed Saturday and Sunday

See here.

ERIC KAYSER - 3X

Locations all over 

Best baguettes ever.  Get them when in the morning when they're fresh.

GEORGES RESTAURANT @ THE POMPIDOU - 1X

19 Rue Beaubourg  75004 Paris, France+33 1 44 78 47 99

Wednesday to Sunday, 11am-2am; Monday, 11am-12am;  Closed Tuesdays

The food was great, but it was not classic French. This can be welcome diversion though, especially if you feel like you're on the verge of a heart attack after all that rich food.  Oh and the views, absolutely stunning and second to none.  In a city where getting a table can be extremely stressful, this is one of the few easy restaurants to get a table at. It's huge and we walked right in for lunch. 

KUNITORAYA - 1X

39, Rue Sainte-Anne, Paris, France
01 47 03 33 65

Daily, 11:30am-10pm

**According to Yelp the Sainte Anne location has closed.  This address is also no longer listed on the official website. Try the new place below.**

KUNITORAYA 2

5, rue Villedo 75001 Paris
Tél : 01 47 03 07 74

This is the "best udon in Paris".  I have never tried other udon places, so I cannot say if this is true or not.  My udon was good though!    

L'AS DU FALLAFEL - 1X

34 Rue des Rosiers  75004 Paris, France

Monday to Thursday and Sunday, 11am-12am; Friday, 11am-5pm; Closed Saturday

Famous for their fallafels.  This is a great place to stop for a quick meal.  Go for lunch if you want to avoid the lines.  

L'ATELIER DE JOEL ROBUCHON - 1X

5 Rue Montalembert  75007 Paris, France+33 1 42 22 56 56

Daily, 11:30am-3pm and 6pm-12am

What else would you expect, but perfection?  These were some of the most incredibly executed dishes I have ever seen and tasted (on par with Tickets in Barcelona).  The fish was impeccably cooked.  The star of the night was the raw scallop starter (the one in the circular dish beneath the photo of the fish).  B and I were fighting over that.  The steak tartare was delicious, but I somehow craved the one at Le Severo more.  All in all, a fantastic restaurant.  Service and ambiance were spot on. 

LADUREE CAFE (ORLY AIRPORT) - 1X

Orly Ouest Terminal
Public Zone Departure Hall 2
Tel : +33 (0)1 74 22 07 77 

A fantastic way to end your Paris trip.  Sure it feels a little phoney and can't compare to the original locations in the city, but it's Laduree!  Use your imagination.  Oh and make sure you pick up some macarons for the flight home - you (or your family and friends) will be grateful you did!

LADUREE - 3X

18 rue Royale 75008 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 42 60 21 79

Monday to Thursday, 8:30am-7:30pm; Friday and Saturday, 8:30am-8pm; Sunday, 10am-7pm

21 rue Bonaparte 75006 Paris
Tel : +33 (0)1 44 07 64 87

Monday to Friday, 8:30am-7:30pm; Satuday, 8:30am-8:30pm; Sunday, 10:00am-7:30pm

I've been to the Rue Royale and Rue Bonaparte locations, but the one on Champ Elysees is supposed to be the best (based on the decor, the macarons taste the same).  On my list for my next visit.  When I visited Paris in 2012, there was a pop up shop in the Louvre.  Laduree is slowly taking over Paris, one tourist spot at a time. 

LE BAMBOU - 2X

70 Rue Baudricourt 75013 Paris, France
+33 1 45 70 91 75
Tuesday to Sunday, 11:30am-3:30pm and 6:30pm-10:30pm; Closed Mondays
We came here twice.  It was a solid place and I'd go back to try other dishes.  The com suon (vietnamese pork chops) was pretty good. Pho was good as well. 

LE BON MARCHE - 1X

24 Rue de Sèvres  75007 Paris, France+33 1 44 39 80 00

Monday to Saturday, 8am-8pm; Closed Sundays
A must stop if you are fascinated by food displays and decadent French ingredients.  Everything looked so perfect! 

LE CAFE - 2X

62 Rue Tiquetonne 75002 Paris, France

+01-49-26-06-60

Monday to Saturday, 10am-10pm; Sunday, 12pm-12am

Nice place for a break in shopping heaven.  So many cool shops in this neighborhood.  I ate dinner here once and stopped for coffee another time. 

LE CAFE MOLLIEN @ THE LOUVRE -1X

Louvre museum, Denon Wing, 1st floor. Next to the gallery of Large-Format French paintings.

Open daily (except Tuesday) from 10:30 a.m. to 5 p.m., and 7 p.m. on Wednesdays and Fridays.
Your average museum cafe. Nice spot for a halftime break before beginning the next mile of the labyrinth known as the Louvre. 

LE CHATEAUBRIAND - 1X

129 Avenue Parmentier  75011 Paris, France

+33 1 43 57 45 95
Dinner only; Closed Sunday & Monday
One of the hottest tables in Paris (at least in 2011). If you couldn't get a reservation, there is a 2nd seating (@9:30pm) where you just show up (no reservations accepted for the 2nd seating).  We were there an hour before the 2nd seating started and were the first in line.  I think it's safe to be there 40 minutes beforehand.  By 9:15pm there was a very long line.  Chef Aizpitarte wasn't there the night we went.  Bummer. 

LE COMPTOIR DU RELAIS - 1X
9 Carrefour de l'Odéon Paris
+33 1 44 27 07 50

Daily, 12pm-6pm (10:30pm on Saturdays and Sundays)

This place serves all the classics.  Book in advance for dinner or get in line early for lunch (no reservations accepted), or prepare to wait a long time for a table. 

LE SEVERO - 4X

8 Rue des Plantes  75014 Paris, France
+33 1 45 40 40 91

Monday to Friday, 12pm-2pm and 7:30pm-9:45pm; Closed Saturday and Sunday

See here.

LE WATER BAR @ COLETTE - 1X

213 Rue Saint-Honoré  75001 Paris, France
+33 1 55 35 33 90

Monday to Saturday, 11am-7pm
I came here to rest my feet after walking the length of Rue Saint Honore.  Colette is a cool place to stop and see beautiful clothes. Just be ready to elbow your way through the crowd.  

GALERIES LAFAYETTE - 1X

40 Boulevard Haussmann 75009 Paris, France

+33 1 42 82 34 56

Monday to Saturday, 9:30am-8pm; Closed Sundays

Stopped for a coffee and fresh bread here.  Very impressive selection of gourmet food. 

PHO SONG HUONG - 1X

Next to Pho Banh Cuon 14

+33 1 45 85 01 76

My mom said these were some of the best tasting cha gio she had ever had in her life. I couldn't agree more.  The pho was decent too, definitely the best I've had in Paris (though I still prefer the American version).

PHO BANH CUON 14 - 1X

129 Avenue de Choisy 75013 Paris, France

+33 1 45 83 61 15

Daily, 9am-11pm

If you google "pho in paris" or "best pho in paris" this place tops the search results.  I thought the pho at Le Bambou and Pho Song Huong were a touch better, but it could have been an off night for Pho Banh Cuon 14. I'd hate to write this place off after one experience, so I plan to go back one day. One thing is for sure, they has a lot of fans.  The line outside was incredible. 

PIERRE HERME - +10X
72 Rue Bonaparte Paris
+33 1 43 54 47 77
Daily, 10am-7pm
See here.
And here.

RODIN MUSEUM (CAFE) - 2X

79 Rue de Varenne  75007 Paris, France+33 1 44 18 61 10 Tuesday to Sunday, 10am-5pm; Closed Mondays

This is a Cafeteria style cafe (trays and all), so don't expect table service.  If you are here already and feel hungry, the food is surprisingly decent.  It's a great spot to stop and refuel just enough to keep your appetite (and wallet) in tact.  Also, it's located in one of my favorite museums in Paris.

TOKYO EAT @ PALAIS DU TOKYO - 3X

13 Avenue du Président Wilson, 75116 Paris, France
+33 1 47 20 00 29
Daily, 12pm-3pm and 8pm-11:30pm
Very good food and the restaurant is very interesting (especially the bathrooms).  The menu changes constantly and there are always new and interesting things being offered.

PLACES THAT ARE STILL ON MY PARIS FOOD LIST:

FRENCHIE, YAM T'CHA, CAFE LE PAPILLON, L'ASTRANCE, CHARBON ROUGE, LE RELAIS DE L'ENTRECOTE, CHEZ MICHEL, DU PAIN ET DES IDEES.

Bon appetit!

FOOD YOU CANNOT MISS IN PARIS

Paris is an ever-evolving city when it comes to food.  Like New York, there is always a classic place to cross off your list and a brand new hot spot to try.  Balancing the old and the new is the key to getting the most out of your visit. 

Food recs for first timers and folks who have been to this city multiple times will vary, so the list below consists of things that I always eat when I'm in Paris.  I’ve been to each of the places below at least 4+ times each – that’s how highly I recommend them.  Bon appétit!

1) ISPAHAN CROISSANT FROM PIERRE HERME

The love of my life

The eclair, plain croissant, and ispahan macaron were all winners

If you only retain one piece of information from this post, let it be this:  forget the cafes, forget the hotel breakfast, forget everything else and head straight to Pierre Herme for their heavenly, sublime, exquisite, too-good-to-be-true ispahan croissant for breakfast.  

Tips:  There are only two locations that serves baked goods and I've listed them below.  The rest of the locations in Paris only sell macarons and chocolates.  You should go early, and I would even recommend being there when they open at 10am.  They usually sell out or stop serving them in the afternoon. I would recommend the location in the 6th arr., it would be easier for you to kill two birds with one stone and do a macaron taste-off since Laduree is just down the street.  I usually go down the street and get a cappuccino to go (very not kosher...taking it to go, but it's that or bring our pastries into the cafe), and we eat it on one of the benches in the lovely square across the street (there is no where to sit and nothing to drink at Pierre Herme).

6th Arrondissement

Opening Hours: Monday to Wednesday and Sunday, 10am-7pm; Thursday and Friday, 10am-7:30pm; Saturday, 10am-8pm
Address: 72 rue Bonaparte, 75006
Phone: 01 43 54 47 77
Metro: Saint-Sulpice
Highlights: Ispahan croissant, ispahan macarons, croissants

15th Arrondissement
Opening Hours: Monday to Thursday, 10am - 7pm; Friday and Saturday, 10am-8pm; Sunday, 9am-5pm
Address: 185 rue de Vaugirard 75015
Metro: Pasteur

Highlights: Ispahan Croissant, Ispahan Macaron, Macarons, Croissants. 

2) DUCK CONFIT FROM JOSEPHINE (CHEZ DUMONET)

Duck confit served with potatoes and salad

Amuse bouche, half portion of foie gras terrine, and money shots of the glorious duck confit

This place shows you what duck confit should always be.  The skin - crisp and crunchy.  The meat - succulent, luscious, and absolutely divine.   

Tips:  Reservations are essential.  Make sure you factor in the time to get to the restaurant since the metro is a bit far.  If you're coming by taxi, 10 minutes max and you should be here, even if coming from the right bank. Also, the portions are huge here.  Try to skip a meal or eat lightly throughout the day so you don't ruin your appetite!

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday, 12pm - 3pm (lunch), 7pm - 10:30pm(dinner). Closed on Saturday and Sunday.

Address: 117 rue du Cherche Midi, 75006 (6th Arr.)
Telephone: 01 45 48 52 40Metro: Duroc or Falguière

Price: 50-80 EUR

Dress Code: Smart casual. 

Highlights: Foie gras terrine (half portion will be more than enough), duck confit, boeuf bourguignon aux tagliatelles (I've never tried this, but many blogs recommend this dish), millefeuille (see below).   

3) STEAK FRITES AND STEAK TARTARE FROM LE SEVERO 

Mouth-watering faux filet served bleu

The best steak tartare I have ever tasted

Collage of various cuts and pairings we've tried over the years

I have tried a few places famous for steak frites, but Le Severo continues to reign supreme.  It's good to note that the scale of how well you want your steak cooked is different than what we're used to in America.  There are five levels (I've put the American equivalent in parentheses):  bleu (very rare or just seared on each side for a minute), saignant (rare or cooked a little longer than bleu), a point (medium rare or cooked a little longer than saignant), cuit (cooked or done), bien cuit (well done).  I'm not sure they would serve you anything beyond saignant here though.  On our first visit, I ordered mine "medium rare" and was told, no, you want saignant.  I didn't argue. The man that served us (also the owner), wouldn't have it any other way.  Even when we ordered wine, he said no to our request and instead gave us what he thought would go best with the meat.  The one he gave us was actually less expensive than the one we chose, so he definitely wasn't trying to upsell us, but trying to give us the best experience possible.  Just trust him.  If eating rare makes you queasy, you should should probably forgo the entire steak frites experience.  For beef that is aged and prepared this well, it would be a shame to cook them too well. The steak tartare (raw, hand-chopped, very high quality beef mixed with onions and capers) was amazing, possibly more so than the steak.  The steak and frites came to our table perfectly salted.  We didn't need to add anything to it. 

Tips:  Reservations are absolutely essential.  Each time we are there, we see a countless number of people try to walk in, but every single one, without fail, are always turned away.  If you have a French speaking friend, have them call for you.  I have tried making reservations many times in English and broken French, and it never works.  The last time I tried, I said, "Bonjour, parlez-vous anglais?"  and the reply was (in good English), "No, I do not speak English".  Click.  Lastly, don't be fooled by the restaurant around the corner Le Bis (formerly Le Bis Du Severo).  It was purchased in 2011 and is no longer affilicated with Le Severo. 

Opening Hours: Monday to Friday, 12:00 pm - 2:00 pm (lunch), 7:30 pm - 10:00 pm (dinner);  Closed Saturday and Sunday.

Address: 8 rue des Plantes, 75014 (14th Arr.)
Phone: 33-1-45-40-40-91
Metro: Mouton Duvernet or Alesia
Price: 25-50 EUR
Dress Code: Casual
Highlights: Steak tartare, steak frites (faux filet, cote de boeuf, rump steak)

4) MILLEFEUILLE FROM JOSEPHINE (CHEZ DUMONET)

Chez Dumonet again.  We came here for the duck confit and were very pleasantly surprised to discover how unforgettable their millefeuille was.  It was like eating a stick of (high quality) melted butter sandwiched between flaky puff pastry and finished with a generous shower of powdered sugar. Not good for your diet (or health), but so tasty. Sharing is a must.  If you can polish this off after the foie gras and duck confit, you are a beast my friend!

Tips:  Same as above.  Make a reservation.  Also, if at all possible, save room for this.  You may be on the verge of throwing up after a full meal, but it is so worth it.  When I came here with my mother, we ordered the foie gras and duck confit and by the time the millefeuille came, we literally couldn't shove more than a bite down our throat.  Luckily, they can pack it to go for you.  Just don't forget to take it with you when you leave (like we did).

Information: Same as above