FOUR DAYS IN PRAGUE

Prague is beautiful, but the reality of the city doesn't always live up to the dream. Once upon a time it was a secret only Europeans knew about.  Charming, inexpensive, and most importantly, devoid of tourists.  It's most definitely no longer a secret, but you can absolutely still find it charming.  You just need to know what to avoid, where to eat, and when to visit.

Astronomical Clock, first stop on everyone's Prague itinerary

If you've done any research on the city, or have any friends who have been, I'm sure you've heard nothing but rave reviews.  This was the case for me and by the time I finally visited last year, it was talked up to a level so high I was afraid reality could never match my expectations.  Well, I went, and it was amazing.  I've listed my own itinerary for inspiration...so build it up or strip it down as you like.  

Hopefully you'll be able to catch that magical feeling Prague is known for.

DAY 1: 

Astronomical Clock at night

Head to the Astronomical Clock on your first night (hint: do not go at the top of the hour when you need to elbow your way through the crowd).  You will no doubt come back to the square again en route to other places in the city, so just enjoy the clock for what it is on your first visit.  Dinner at Kolkovna.

DAY 2:

Wake up early and head to Old Town Square before the cafes and shops open so you can appreciate how gorgeous it really is when the hawkers in period costumes aren't around.  Check out the Jan Hus Monument on your way to breakfast at Bakeshop Praha.  Walk across the Charles Bridge and marvel at the amazing details. 


Charles Bridge

Once on the other side, drop by the Tredelnik cart for a snack before heading inside St. Nicholas Church (one of the most beautiful in all of Europe). 

St. Nicholas Church

From here, walk up to Prague Castle and take the long or short tour to see St. Vitus Cathedral, Story of Prague Castle, Basilica of St. George, Convent of St. George, Golden Lane, and Powder Tower. Try to time your visit to the castle with the changing of the guard.  Their uniforms were designed by the Amadeus Costume Designer (possibly the most stylish uniform in the world).  



 Sights inside Prague Castle, including the beautiful stained glass windows of the Cathedral

Afterwards, walk to Wallenstein Gardens and if it's your lucky day, you'll catch a glimpse of the elusive albino peacock.  

Wallenstein Gardens

Break for lunch at Cafe Savoy (highly recommend the duck). Head to Wenceslas Square to see David Cerney's brilliant "Horse" sculpture at Lucerna Passage (inspired by the statue of St. Wenceslas in Wenceslas Square).  Dinner at La Degustation. 

"Horse" by David Cerney at Lucerna Passage

DAY 3:

Breakfast to go at Michelske Pekarny (largest bakery chain in the Czech Republic...fun fact: they hold the contract for McDonald's hamburger buns on this side of the world).  Take a train to Kutna Hora to see Sedlec Ossuary (a church decorated with 40,000 human bones).  Lunch somewhere on the way back to Prague (not memorable).


Sedlec Ossuary

Explore the Jewish Quarters (all part of a combined ticket):  Spanish Synagogue, Prague Jewish Museum, Klaus Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue, and Old Jewish Cemetery.  Dinner at Lokal. 


Old Jewish Cemetery

See Charles Bridge at night.  Head to Zizkou Tower to see another of David Cerney's creations.

View of Prague Castle from Charles Bridge lit up at night

Traffic jam on Charles Bridge

DAY 4:

Breakfast at Bohemia Bagel (not recommended if you're visiting from the States, I live in Italy so Bagels are hard to come by). One last look at Old Town Square. Shop at the Open Air Market close to the square before picking up some traditional baked goods at Michelske Pekarny for the flight home.

EATS

LA DEGUSTATION: Highly recommended.  This was the best meal I had in Prague.  I almost didn't make it through the 10 course dinner.  Make sure you dress up a little. Reservations essential. Hours: Monday-Sunday, 6pm-12am. Address: Haštalská 753/18, 110 00 Prague 1-Old Town.

Food coma-inducing tasting menu at La Degustation

LOKAL: This is the kind of place I would go to over and over again if I lived in Prague.  Easy food, laid back atmosphere, good prices.  Make a reservation or go early. Hours: Monday-Friday, 11am-1am. Saturday, 12pm-1am. Sunday, 12pm-10pm. Address: Dlouhá 33, 110 00 Prague 1.

Good food, plain and simple at Lokal

CAFE SAVOY:  The duck was absolutely delicious.  Crunchy skin, tasty meat.  The bread dumplings were the perfect companion to this dish because it sucked up all the tasty juice. Cute contender for breakfast too. Hours: Monday-Friday, 8:00am-10:30pm. Saturday and Sunday, 9:00am-10:30pm. Address: Vítězná 124/5, 150 00 Prague 5.

Mouth-watering duck with bread dumplings and red cabbage at Cafe Savoy

TRDELNIK CART: The place I tried by St. Nicholas Church (22 Malostanske nam, Mala Strana) was mediocre at best, but I couldn't help myself.  Please don't judge this delicious treat based on your experience here.  It deserves better.  Hours: All times of day. Address: All over town.

There's a Starbucks next door if you need some caffeine to wash it down

BAKESHOP PRAHA:  We came here twice, not because of the life-changing pastries, but because the location was perfect.  Get the basics and you'll be good. Hours: Monday-Sunday, 7am-9pm. Address: Kozí 918/1, 110 00 Prague 1-Old Town.

KOLKOVNA:  Classic (touristy) Czech Pub.  It's open seven days a week for lunch and dinner, so save this as a backup in case any of your other choices backfire. The food was decent, but very heavy. Beer was good. Hours: Monday-Sunday, 11am-12am. Address: V Kolkovně 8, 110 00 Praha 1-Staré Město.

Meat and bread dumplings

BOHEMIA BAGEL:  This place was decent, but  don't come here if you're visiting from the states.  I just usually try to inhale as much non-Italian food as possible when traveling. Hours: Monday-Sunday, 8am-9pm. Address: Masná 2, Prague 1, Old Town.

RESTAURANTS I WOULD HAVE LIKED TO TRY:

• U medvídků
• Céleste
• Kampa Park
• Mozaika
• U Modré kachničky
• The Globe Bookstore and Cafe
• Pivovarský Klub
• Na Verandách
• Slavia Art Cafe

TIPS AND PRACTICAL INFORMATION:

GETTING TO THE CITY FROM THE AIRPORT: The cheapest way to get to the city is to take bus 119 then transfer to Metro A which runs through the heart of the city (your ticket is valid on the metro too).  Make sure you do two things before stepping outside the airport: pull Czech Crowns from the ATM and change the bills to coins at the Tourist Information. stand  Only specific denominations are allowed for purchasing tickets at the ticket machines, which are located right next to the bus stop.  You can buy tickets from the driver, but it will be more expensive. Validate your tickets on the bus.

GOOD SHOES ARE A MUST: Ladies, leave the heels at home. Pack blister band-aids instead. 

PUNCTUATE YOUR VISIT WITH FOOT MASSAGES: Some savvy business person understood that foot massages and a walking town like Prague go hand-in-hand.  Just make sure you read the prices carefully!  If something that sounds too good to be true, it usually is.

WAKE UP EARLY, SLEEP LATE: I know I'm beating a dead horse, but to truly enjoy Prague, you should see it without the crowds.

WHERE TO STAY: With limited time in Prague, stay as close to Old Town Square as you can afford.  The other area hotels are concentrated is near Wenceslas Square, which I do not recommend. You will be further from all the sights and Wenceslas Square is known to be shady at night.  Not unsafe shady, but tauts all vying for you to patronize their strip clubs shady.

WHEN TO GO: I went in September and it was a manageable crowd.  Like all of Europe, it will be a zoo in July and August.  Early spring or early fall would be your best bet.  If you don't mind the cold, I'm sure a snow-covered Old Town Square would be breathtaking during the winter.

A WEEKEND IN BUDAPEST

Glorious interior of The Great Synangogue



Budapest is an absolute gem. If you need proof, the city itself along with specific places in it - Andrássy Avenue, Castle Hill, and the Danube River - are all on the UNESCO World Heritage Site list.  It is easily one of my favorite cities in Eastern Europe and is reminiscint of what Prague was when it first hit the travel scene:  slightly off the radar, achingly beautiful, and very inexpensive.  

WHAT TO SEE

The order in which the sites are listed is how I was able to see everything. For people used to driving vs walking, this tour will probably exhaust you, but it is totally doable! If you're up for the challenge, here goes: One full day was spent seeing the Buda side and Memento Park (along with breakfast at Ruszwurm, lunch at Gellert Hotel, and dinner at Onyx). Another full day for the Pest side (brunch at Gundel and dinner at Menza). The morning of the last half day was reserved for Parliament (lunch at Great Market Hall and dessert at Molnar's).

BUDA SIDE:  Head up to to Castle Hill via the Chain Bridge/Széchenyi lánchíd (best enjoyed early to have it to yourself or late to see it lit up) and see Mattias Church from the outside (amazing roof), Fisherman’s Bastion (great views of Pest and the Danube), Magdalene Tower (remains of a church that was bombed during WWII), Royal Wine Cellars (Hungarian wine tasting…try the Tokaj which is similar to Moscato), and stroll around the Royal Palace.  If you have time, check out the Liberty Statue and Citadel on Gellert Hill.  Sink into the palatial indoor pool at Gellert Baths.

View of the Royal Palace from Pest

The beautiful rooftop of Mattias Church

MEMENTO PARK:  Statue park of Communist monuments and statues. Definitely make an effort to see this.  It’s a bit out of the way, but easy to get to if you’re already on the Buda side (you’ll need to take a tram, then a bus...about 50 minutes total).  Honestly, I found the whole thing so ironic (that money was spent to keep these relics), but that's the beauty of freedom.  And it really is a very well designed space.  Kudos to the architect.

Communist statues and monuments at Memento Park





PEST SIDE:  Take a guided tour of Parliament. It would be wise to purchase tickets when it opens at 8am to have first dibs on choosing the time (English tours are at 10:00, 12:00, 13:00, 13:45, and 15:00).  If you show up at noon hoping to join the 1pm tour, chances are high that it will be sold out. Note that there are no tours during Parliamentary sessions (normally on Mondays, Tuesdays, and sometimes Wednesdays).  

View of Parliament and the Danube from Buda

Parliament

Afterwards, go see the largest synagogue in Europe (The Great Synanoguge aka Dohány Street Synagogue) then head to Andrássy Avenue for the Hungarian State Opera House. It was built to rival Vienna’s, but I found it to be much nicer.  The guided tour provides interesting information (especially if you have been to the Vienna State Opera). This place has the opposite ticket purchasing policy than Parliament.  They only sell tickets 30 minutes before the start of the next tour, i.e. you can’t go at 10am and buy tickets for a 4pm tour.  Make your way to the House of Terror and enjoy the last stretch of Andrássy before you reach Heroes’ Square/Hősök tere (best viewed at sunset-bordering-night fall).

Exterior of The Great Synangoge

Auditorium of the Hungarian State Opera House

Mandatory shoe covers for the guided tour of the Hungarian State Opera House



Striking exterior of the House of Terror



Heroes' Square: stoic by day and breathtaking by night

Finish up your day at Szechenyi Baths (open every day from 6am-10pm).  Towels have to be rented and they resemble paper mâché so make sure you bring your own. Flip flips are also a must (the floors are grainy and dirty around the locker rooms and the outdoor baths can be dangerously slippery). If you have time, check out St. Stephen’s Basilica (the interior is beautiful).  Avoid Vaci Utca with all your might (with the exception of going for kurtoskalacs...see below).  I took a midnight stroll past this infamous street and found it way too touristy to warrant a daytime visit.   

Outdoor pool at Szechenyi Baths

WHERE TO EAT

After scouring food blogs, news articles, and travel books, these were the restaurants that made the final cut on my trip to Budapest.  

ONYX RESTAURANT: One of two Michelin star restaurants in Budapest (Costes is the other one). It's much cheaper than what you would pay for a star anywhere else.  You will see all the usual suspects here - foam, technical skill, unusual ingredient pairings.  Go with the Hungarian Evolution tasting menu (21,900 HUF/95 USD for a 6 course meal + cheese plate in 2012).  The bread was killer.

Opening Hours: Tuesday to Friday 12pm-2pm and 6:30pm-11pm. Saturday dinner only.  Closed on Sunday and Monday.
Address: Vörösmarty tér 7-8, Budapest

Carb heaven at Onyx.  Try them all!

MENZA: This place came highly recommended, but it was hit or miss. My food was good, but B's food was...meh. Be smart about what you order by observing what others are eating. The restaurant was filled with locals and that's always a good sign.
Opening Hours: Daily 10am-12am
Address: Liszt Ferenc tér 2, Budapest

GUNDEL RESTAURANT: A solid choice for brunch. Recommended by every travel guide and blog. It's right by Heroes Square and Szechenyi Baths. The food display was a feast for the eyes. Service was great too. A bit expensive by Budapest standards (6,400 HUF or 28 USD), but it gets bonus points for the killer dessert spread. Opening Hours: Sunday brunch 11:30am-3pm and 6:30pm-11pm. Monday to Saturday 12pm-4pm and 6:30pm-11pm.

Address: Gundel Károly út 4, Budapest

 

Sugar rush at Gundel's Sunday Brunch 

RUSZWURM CUKRÁSZDA: Cute, cute, cute. This place has character. The ladies that work here are adorable. When ordering the cakes, don't put all your eggs in one basket, as looks can be deceiving. Order a variety and share. This is a great place to take a break after seeing Fisherman's Bastion, Mattias Church, etc.
Opening hours: Spring to Fall 9am-8pm. Winter 10am-7pm.

Address: Szentháromság St 7, Budapest

GREAT MARKET HALL: Come here for real (and cheap) Hungarian food. The food court is on the top level to the right. Paprika was sprinkled on everything. If you find a booth that serves a long log of stuffed cabbage - buy it immediately. It was delicious. I had my heart set on trying the famous street food, lángos, but it didn't live up to my expectations (it's fried! with sugar! how can it not be good?!). I tried the sweet version though so maybe savory is the way to go? This is also a great place for souvenirs.Opening hours: Tuesday to Friday 6am-6pm. Monday 6am to 5pm. Saturday 6am-3pm. Closed on Sunday.
Address: Vámház körút 1-3, Budapest

Beef goulasch, stuffed cabbage, and langos from Great Market Hall

MOLNAR'S KURTOSKALACS: Also known as Chimney Cake. It's like a thin, yeasty pretzel baked on a spit over an open fire and finished with sweet spices and nuts.  Hands down my favorite Eastern European street food!  Eat it every chance you get as they are sold everywhere.
Opening hours: Daily 9am-10pm
Address: Vaci Ucta 31, Budapest

Fresh Kürtőskalács!  Yum.

GERBEAUD CAFE:  The most famous cafe in Budapest. I tried going, but it was closed.  Same owners as Onyx.
Hours: Daily 9am-9pm
Address: Vörösmarty tér 7-9, Budapest

PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND TIPS

HOW TO GET TO THE CITY: Public transportation from the airport to the city is complicated.  Your best best is either pre-booking your airport transfer (usually a minibus/van) with the airline you’re flying (we flew Wizz Air and were able to arrange it through them) or pay for a legal taxi (Főtaxi  is the official airport taxi company).  With the taxi option, queue at the official taxi stand, get a quote, and pay when you get to your destination.  It should cost between 22-28 euros. Whatever you do, don't just hop into a random (and unregulated) taxi.

WALK AROUND: One of the highlights of the city is the city itself. Take your time and enjoy the small streets, facades, and colorful rooftops.  Chat up some locals, make some new friends.

VALIDATE YOUR TICKETS: If you take public transportation, make sure you validate your tickets once on the actual bus/train/tram or prepare to pay a fine (if caught).

SZECHENYI VS. GELLERT: If you only have time for one bath, I recommend Szechenyi (where you can see half naked Hungarian men playing chess in the outdoor pools).  All the pools are co-ed. 

BATH HOUSE ESSENTIALS:  Bathing suit, flip flops, towel, change of clothes (or at least clean underwear), and toiletries. If you've been to a public bath house anywhere else in the world, the etiquette is pretty much the same.  If you haven't, here's a quick rundown of how it works.

Pay for entry. Head to the female or male changing room. Find your locker. Put on bathing suit. Shower with shampoo and soap (your body needs to be clean before entering the shared public pools).  Wander around (to the pools/sauna/steam room/massage area/etc...the order here is not important). Shower again (or at least rinse off all the minerals) before leaving.  Return key.

BASIC HUNGARIAN: Hello=Szervusz (SER-voos). Please=Kérem (KEY-rem). Thank you=Köszönöm (KØ-sø-nøm). Yes=Igen (EE-gen). No=Nem (nem). Goodbye=Viszontlátásra (VEE-sont-la-tash-rå). Do you speak English=Beszél angolul (BE-seyl ÅN-go-loul).  

I don't understand=Nem értem (nem EYR-tem).

Enjoy!!

BEFORE YOU DIE: SHIBAZAKURA

A blanket of rosy hues as far as the eye can see (Golden Week 2007)

Wow was the only thing on my mind when I caught my first glimpse of Shibazakura (or "lawn cherry blossoms", as they resemble the flowers from cherry blossom trees).  The ocean of pink, lavender, and white flowers that covered 2.4 hectares was truly a sight to see. Definitely something worth seeing before you die.

WHAT: Seeing Shibazakura (phlox subulata or moss pink) in full bloom.

WHEN: Late April to late May.  Usually blooming at 100% towards the end of cherry blossom season.
WHERE: All over Japan.  The photo abovie is from Hitsujiyama Park in Saitama Prefecture (2 hours by car from Tokyo) which was absolutely breathtaking, but if you go, I'd recommend the Mt. Fuji Shibazakura Festival (3.5 hours by car from Tokyo).  Seeing Shibazakura with Mt. Fuji as the backdrop would take it to another level.